Once it was gold. Now you’ll find nuggets of history, writes Kirrily Schwarz…
As soon as you open the door to the tasting room at Munari Wines, you’ll be greeted by a friendly face and a wet nose. The welcoming committee, a gentle black lab called Panther, wags his tail and accepts a scratch behind the ears before wandering off to sleep on a cosy chair near the heater. The cellar door is in the stables of a historic 1870s sheep station about 11km north of Heathcote. The walls and ceiling feature the original wood, while the space is divided into sections that feel like someone’s living room, filled with rugs, racks of dusty wine bottles, and an antique kerosene lamp. It’s warm, rustic and utterly charming. Winemaker Adrian Munari, a former teacher, and his wife, Deborah, have been in business for 27 years. They started with a single shiraz – the variety for which Heathcote is famous – and slowly expanded their portfolio to include an awardwinning selection of well-structured wines. “We hope people walk in and feel like they’ve discovered something,” says their daughter India Munari, also the winery’s marketing manager. “People can enjoy the family hospitality, and they can be surprised by the quality of the wine.” Right now, restrictions are keeping most of us at home, but when the tide turns against the virus, road trips will again be the best way to explore regional Victoria. Combined with apartment-style accommodation, they offer the safety of social distancing with the freedom of the open road. There are lots of excellent options accessible from Melbourne, but one of the best is a four-day/threenight drive through Ballarat, Bendigo, and Echuca. Central Victoria has always been rich in things to discover, like the first gold nugget found in the 1850s, which heralded the region’s rich history and incredible wealth. Today, you’re more likely to stumble upon family-run businesses, exceptional hospitality and some of the state’s most underrated scenery. Soak up the history by strolling down Lydiard St in Ballarat, marvelling at the ornate facades, sweeping staircases and extravagant interiors in buildings such as Craig’s Royal Hotel. It’s a pleasant way to pass an afternoon before stopping for dinner at one of the excellent restaurants. Try the tapas and cocktails at Meigas, just around the corner on Armstrong St. Spend your first night at Quest Ballarat, set in a 131-year-old former Catholic convent, before heading north. The Creswick Woollen Mill is the perfect place to stock up on hats, gloves, and scarves to keep you cosy on a winter road trip. Maze House, run by Chris Dennis and Trish Kevin, is exactly the kind of quirky discovery that makes road trips exciting. The couple planted a hedge maze almost 30 years ago, before adding an array of antique lawn games Chris had collected over the years. “You have to ask Trish about the hedge. I’m just the hedge trimmer,” he jokes.
Be sure to stop for scones at the property’s retro cafe, before driving on towards Bendigo. You’ll pass historic farmhouses, revived pubs, and beautifully preserved towns such as Maldon, a great place to stop for lunch and a piece of fudge. Drop off your things at Quest Bendigo before heading to Heathcote for an afternoon of wine tasting. Munari Wines and Sanguine Estate are must-visits. The experiences are like chalk and cheese – where Munari is rustic and homey, Sanguine is bright and polished – but both are family run, with wonderful hospitality and excellent wine. In fact, Sanguine’s elegant 2017 Inception has been voted the seventh-best shiraz in the world. “Social distancing has never been an issue in Heathcote,” says Amanda Flett, Sanguine’s cellar door manager, as she leads the tasting. “Social distancing is something we’re very good at – that and shiraz.” Bendigo’s food scene offers lots of great options. Try Edward’s Providore, in Kennington, for a hearty breakfast made with fresh produce, or ask reception for a local recommendation. It’s been an age since the gold rush, but Bendigo remains a cultural hubs and its art gallery has excellent exhibitions. Australia’s first major survey of contemporary Indigenous fashion, Piinpi: Contemporary Indigenous Fashion, opens at the Bendigo Art Gallery on September 5. The first thing you’ll hear as you get out of the car at Quest Echuca is the laugh of kookaburras perched high in the river gums. The historic port town, on the mighty Murray River, is home to perhaps the biggest surprise of the trip: The Great Aussie Beer Shed and Heritage Farm Museum. Neil and Andrea Thomas opened the museum when Neil retired after more than 37 years with Victoria Police. He’s a lifelong collector and the museum displays everything from rare cans and beer paraphernalia to brewing history – including the original Carlton and United Breweries wagon. “It’s been called the premier beer and brewing museum in Australia,” he says proudly. Families with school-aged kids should book an afternoon at Billabong Ranch. The activities include a petting zoo, horse rides, and pedal boats. Back in town, Echuca Distillery is an essential stop for gin drinkers,while the Star Hotel is great for a meal beforethe PortAfter Dark tour, exploring the darker side of the town’shistory – the ideal way to finish your trip.
Stroll down Lydiard St in Ballarat, marvelling at the ornate facades, sweeping staircases, and extravagant interiors of Craig’s Royal Hotel.
The writer was a guest of Quest Apartment Hotels.